Parts:

  • Rear Truck Replacement Kit
    • Rear Truck
    • 2 x Pulley
    • 4 x Pulley Set Screws
    • 2 x Zip Ties
    • 8 x Motor Screws
    • 2 x Drive Belt
    • Thread Lock 


Tools and Materials:

  • 3mm Allen T-Handle
  • Skate T Tool
  • Utility Knife
  • #2 Phillips Screwdriver
  • 2mm Allen T-Handle
  • Heat Gun (or Hair Dryer)
  • Oven Mitt 
  • Tube of Thread Lock


Process


First, you will remove the motors from the old rear truck.


Use the Skate T-Tool to remove the axle nut and outer speed washer from the first wheel.  


 



 

Pull off the Drive Wheel away from the drive train. If they get stuck pull the drive wheel spacer and flanged bearing off as well. Put to the side. 


One speed washer should remain on the axle.



 



Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to remove the two screws holding on the belt cover. Put the belt cover and screws to the side.





 

Remove the belt put it to the side. 





Plug in the heat gun. 



Hold the heat gun 1”-2” from the pulley, and heat it for up to 120 seconds.





Use the 2mm Allen T-Handle to remove the two screws holding the pulley onto the motor axle. Put the two screws to the side.


Caution: Pulley will be hot!




 


 

Heat the pulley for an additional 60-120 seconds.


Once the glue holding on the pulley is thoroughly heated and deactivated, use the oven mitt, towel, rag, or old shirt to pull it off. Put the pulley to the side.  


Caution: Pulley will be hot!





 

Not pictured: Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the threads of the motor screws, to de-activate the threadlock.


Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 4 screws holding on the motor. Put these screws to the side.  






Slide out the motor. 



 



Repeat the steps above to remove the other motor.


Find the zip-ties holding the motor wires to the truck base plate. Cut them with the utility knife.





Position both motors to the sides of the battery box so that you have unobstructed access to all four rear truck screws and nuts that mount the rear truck to the deck.



NOTE: While the following pictures show how to remove the rear truck screws, they inaccurately show both motors and rear wheels still attached.  You have already removed yours from the old rear truck.



Move the board so that the tail hangs off the edge of the work table.





Use the Skate Tool to secure one of the rear truck nuts.





Reach under the deck and direct the 3mm Allen T-Tool into the truck screw head. Unscrew with the 3mm Allen, and remove the nut and screw and put them to the side.






Look straight down on the rear truck. Notice that between the motor and hanger you can access the truck nut.





Use the Skate Tool to hold this nut.






Use the 3mm Allen T-Tool to remove the truck screw. Put the rear truck screw and nut to the side. Repeat these steps for the truck screws and nuts on the other side of the rear truck.


Your old rear truck can now be removed and set aside.


Locate your new rear truck and position it for mounting.



NOTE: While the following pictures show how to mount the new rear truck, they inaccurately show both motors and rear wheels already attached.  You have not yet mounted yours to the new rear truck.



Grab a truck screw and nut. Pass the screw through the board, risers, and truck base plate. Hand tighten the nut on the underside of the deck.







Repeat this for all four screws and nuts. The nuts closest to the motors will be a very tight fit for your fingers - make sure to orient the board in such a way where you can hold the nut in place as you screw in the screw.


Once all of the truck nuts nuts are are hand tight, use the Skate Tool and 3mm T-Handle Allen to tighten them firmly.


Reach under the deck and direct the 3mm Allen T-Tool into the truck screw head. Remove the nut and screw and put them to the side.





Take one of the new zip ties and place it through the hole in in the truck base plate. 


You will use this to secure the motor wire momentarily.



 



Slide the motor into the slot in the motor mount of the new truck. Make sure the motor wire is pointing back towards the tail, and the motor screw holes line up with the motor mount screw holes. 



  



Tighten the zip tie around the motor wire. Cut the zip tie extra with the utility knife.





Place a drop of thread lock on the threads near the end of each motor screw. 


It is VERY IMPORTANT to place the drop of thread lock on the very end of the screw threads.  Only 3-4 threads secure into the motor when tightened, so these are where the thread lock is needed.



Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to secure the 4 motor screws.


Note: Make sure to use a #2 Phillips, as other types of Phillips may strip these screws. Be careful to not strip the screw heads.  Tighten securely, but do not over-tighten.





 

Orient your motor axle pointing up. Place the new pulley onto the motor axle with one screw hole pointing up (aligned with the flat spot) and the other screw hole pointing away from the truck hanger axle (where the drive wheel goes).


Pulleys that have only one set screw should align it with the flat spot on the motor shaft.





Push the pulley onto the axle until the inner edge aligns with the end of the flat spot. If correctly placed the pulley will hang slightly over the motor axle.






Push the pulley onto the axle until the inner edge aligns with the end of the flat spot. If correctly placed the pulley will hang slightly over the motor axle.




 

Grab the new pulley set screws. Put a drop of thread lock onto the threads of one the pulley set screws. Use the 2mm Allen T-Handle to insert and tighten. Repeat for the second screw. 


Note: Be careful not to strip the screw heads.  Tighten securely, but do not over-tighten.

You should not have to force these screws in. If they are not going in easily then they are likely not aligned properly. If they are getting jammed before they reach the bottom, back them out, adjust, and tighten again.





 


Put on the new belt.


 

  


 
Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to replace the screws securing the belt cover. Put a drop of threadlock onto the threads near the end of each screw.


Note: Do not over-tighten the screws!







Replace the drive wheel. Install the rear wheel spacer (taller than the front wheel spacer) and then the flanged bearing.





Make sure this flanged bearing is pushed all the way in and is sitting flush.





Make sure the inner speed washer is present. 





Slide the whole wheel assembly onto the axle.

 

You may need to twist the wheel while pushing to get the drive gear teeth to catch the belt.





Make sure the drive wheel teeth properly catch the belt.





Install the outer speed washer, then the wheel nut.




 

Use the Skate T-Tool to tighten the wheel nut. Tighten it to the point where there is no horizontal play.


 



Repeat these steps to mount and secure the other motor and drive wheel.


Ready to ride!






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