- Motor Controller Replacement Kit
- Replacement Motor Controller
- 2 Zip Ties
- 1 Tube of Thermal Paste
- 1 Tube of Thread Lock
- 1 Power Switch (in case your current one breaks during install)
Tools and Materials:
- 3mm Allen T-Handle
- Utility Knife
- #2 Phillips Screwdriver
- 14mm Wrench
- Heat Gun (Optional)
Place the board on a 5" tall riser that hangs the wheels off the table. An Amazon box or shoe box will work well.
Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to remove the 6 screws holding on the battery box. Put the 6 screws to the side.
When all 6 screws are out, grab around the board holding the un-attached battery box to the deck. Carefully flip it over.
Grab the battery box and flip it over.
Notice that the motor wires coming out of the battery box will now be crossed.
Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 6 screws that hold the lid onto the battery box.
There may be a light bead of silicon holding the lid to the battery box. Gently grab the motor wires near the back of the battery box and lift up to dislodge the lid. Lift the lid off of the battery box.
Disconnect the battery from the motor controller before working on anything inside the battery box.
View the speed controller. Follow the wire from the motor you want to replace into the battery box. Note that the wiring you need to unplug is on the opposite side of the motor.
For the first motor, identify the 3 wires that connect the motor to the speed controller, along with the zip tie.
Carefully use the utility knife to cut the zip tie. Do not sever the motor wires.
Disconnect the 3 wires. Note which colors match up. We suggest taking a picture before disconnecting.
Pull the grommet off the battery box. Gently pull the motor wiring harness to the side of its motor.
Repeat these steps for the other motor.
Pull the battery box away from the motors. The battery box is now removed from the deck.
Find the red charge port connector. Unplug the battery from the charge port.
Use the 14mm wrench to remove the charge port nut. Turn the nut counter clockwise until it releases from the threads. As the clearance is very tight you will have to place the wrench, turn, then replace the wrench head several times.
Optional: You may use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat and soften the glue that holds this nut in place. Be careful not to apply too much heat to the wall of the battery box, or it will soften and break.
You may need to hold the outside of your charge port with your other hand, while turning the charge port nut counter-clockwise.
Remove the charge port nut and washer.
Pull out the charge port.
Identify where the On/Off Switch plugs into the Speed Controller. Unplug the On/Off Switch connector.
Identify where the Battery Meter plugs into the Speed Controller. Unplug the Battery Meter connector.
Use the #2 Screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the speed controller to the heat sink below it. Firmly press the screwdriver into the screw heads and turn counter clockwise.
Remove the four motor controller screws. If they fall into the box, you can turn the box over and catch the screws as the fall out.
Recognize that the motor controller screws are different from the lid screws. The motor controller screws, seen below, have fine threads and do not have pointed tips.
Loosen the motor controller by gently but firmly pulling it up by the motor wires, as it may "stick" to the heat sink below it due to the presence of thermal compound between them. You need to lift firmly to release it, but be careful not to damage the On/Off Switch by pulling too hard once it separates from the heat sink.
Once loose, pull the motor controller up on the Charge Port side and out at an angle.
Before installing the new motor controller, apply Thermal Paste to the heat sink. Apply a generous bead that is evenly spread across the whole surface of the heat sink.
Grab the new motor controller. Orient the motor controller so that the motor wires exit towards the rear of the battery box. Drop it down into place at an angle from the Charge Port side of the battery box to get under the On/Off Switch and Battery Meter wiring.
Press the motor controller down firmly to evenly spread the thermal compound while sliding it to line up the motor controller mounting holes with the mount holes on the heat sink.
Place a drop of thread lock on the threads near the end of each motor controller screw. Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to secure the 4 motor controller screws.
You may need to hold the screw to the end of the #2 Phillips Screwdriver with the tip of your finger while setting them each into place.
Note: Be careful to not strip the screw heads. Tighten securely, but do not over-tighten.
Grab the new the charge port.
Remove the charge port nut and lock washer. Insert the charge port into the side wall of the battery box, making sure its rubber cover sits between the charge port and the outside of the wall.
Replace the washer then the nut, and tighten the nut by hand until approximately 3 threads are visible on the charge port.
Place a drop of thread lock on the threads between the charge port nut and the inner wall of the battery box.
Continue to tighten by hand until you feel too much resistance. Then use your off hand to hold to charge port while tightening the nut with the 14mm wrench.
Continue tightening until the charge port is firmly in place and the rubber gasket of the charge port cover is tightly compressed.
Plug the charge port's red connector to the battery's red connector. Make sure the two are lined up so that the wire colors match. Do not force them if they are not lined up.
Plug the On/Off Switch back into the motor controller. The red wire should line up with the word “LED” printed on the motor controller next to the connector.
Plug the Battery Meter back into the motor controller. The wire with a red stripe should be closest to the On/Off Switch connector.
Now it’s time to plug the motors into the new speed controller. Push the battery box up close to the motors so you don’t stress the motor wires during installation.
Important: On the outside of the battery box, cross the wires for the motor on the right with the wires for the motor on the left. When we later flip the battery box over, these wires will un-cross.
Make sure to push the battery box to the edge of the deck foam closest to the motors to ensure you are not pulling and putting unnecessary stress on the motor wires.
Carefully plug all 3 motor wires for the first motor into the motor controller.
On some newer boards and replacement motors, the connections may differ from what is shown and may instead be: red-red, green-green, blue-blue.
Repeat for the second motor. Make sure all connections are firm, and the clear rubber insulators fully encase all exposed copper on each wire connector.
Note: Do NOT attach the zip tie yet! You will first need to verify the motors spin the correct direction.
Reconnect the battery to the motor controller. Power on the board and remote and pair them.
Once paired, briefly engage the throttle. If the wheel spins the correct direction (clockwise if you're looking at the wheel logo from the outside), you have the motor wiring correct. If it spins the wrong direction, try the other wiring order.
Power off the board. Disconnect the battery from the motor controller before proceeding.
Place the rubber grommets into their slots. Make sure to pull the battery box towards the motors so not to stress the motor wires.
Re-secure the zip ties around the wiring bundles.
Carefully use the box cutter to cut the zip tie. Do not sever the motor wires.
Reconnect the battery to the motor controller.
Put the lid back into place. Notice that the countersinks are only on one side. This side should be facing up.
Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to tighten the six screws that hold the lid on.
Flip the battery box over.
Grab the riser box. Grab the battery box and deck and flip the two, places them on the riser box.
Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to secure the battery box to the deck with the six battery box mount screws. Put a drop of thread lock onto the threads near the end of each screw.
Ready to ride!
Motor Controller Kit